Samoa - Upolu: Virgin Cove Resort

We take the ferry back to Upolu this morning.

We meet a very nice Samoan couple who've lived most of their lives in NZ, then Australia, and came back to help build the wife's sister's place - 3 weeks and all done and dusted!

We're heading to Virgin Cove Resort today, along the west coast of Upolu which we still haven't seen. Harleigh and Abigail drove that way to the ferry and warned us to allow plenty of time as the roads are not in the best condition. We soon realize what they were referring to when it seems we have to cross a river bed! I wade through to make sure it's not too deep and we finally drive through without any incident.

The Virgin Cove Resort (approx. ST140 with a bit of a discount) seems very quiet when we drive in... It seems we may be the only guests... The hotel advertises a string quartet every night which led me to believe that this may be a posh place... so we're looking forward to air conditioning, and good food - but no such luck, more open fales and lots of mosquitoes - not a good combination...



Bit of trivia: Survivor Samoa was filmed around the corner. Apparently the hotel had to ensure that their guests didn't swim out too far so that they wouldn't be in shot!

There is one late arrival, Celeste, with whom we enjoy chatting at dinner and again at breakfast. It turns out that she's here for work, as she's a writer for Lonely Planet. She's also been to Fiji recently, where we go next, and lived a long time in the Tuamotus in French Polynesia as well as at Teahupoo where her husband Chris did surf photography. Kelly Slater once helped her do the dishes :)

Samoa - Upolu: Piula Cave Pool & back to Apia

The next morning We check out the freshwater Piula Cave Pool (ST5) which is full of fish - it's a little underwhelming, but still a nice way to start the morning!

Piula Cave Pool

Piula Cave Pool

Josh and Tanya drop us off at The Samoan Outrigger Hotel in Apia where we plan to spend the night, use the internet and rent a car to drive (ST100 per day for a min. of 4 days) around Savaii for our second week in Samoa.

Samoa - Upolu: Surfing Salani Right before heading back to Apia via the East Coast

The next day we set out to Salani to check out the surf. We go out to the break with Sam (ST80 for the boat ride) and find perfect empty 4-5ft waves! Whilst Mike, Josh and Sam surf, Tanya and I click away on our cameras.

Mike, Josh & Sam paddling out to Salani Right

Mike

Josh

Sam

Mike

3 hours later, we finally head back for lunch and some shade!

After lunch, we make our way to toward Apia exploring along the way. It seems the map does not always accurately represent the state of some of the roads so we backtrack a few times when it seems the car might struggle to make it ...

Some beautiful detours...

We end up breaking our journey at the Blackwater Lodge (ST140 per room) near the Solosolo surf spot. The hotel doesn't seem like much at first but we are certainly excited when we discover they have hot water, towels, air conditioning and TV!

Samoa - Upolu: Southern Coast & Namua Island

 On our final day at Taufua, we head out to explore Namua Island (ST30pp).

Namua Island

We see a turtle on the way over, and once on the island Mike and Josh paddle off in search of surf.

The boys paddling off...

Tanya and I snorkle around the reef which seems to have been sheltered from the impact of the tsunami.



Since Mike and Josh don't shw up for lunch, Tanya and I walk as far as we can toward the reef that we think they're at but to no avail...

Namua Island

On our way back we see the two boys heading back from the other side of the island - they seemingly paddled half way around the island and clambered over a reef to find a secret spot and then kept paddling around to the other side of island. They both have huge grins on their faces. The surf was 3-4ft, fast and perfect right handers :)

The Secret Spot...

Samoa - Upolu: Southern Coast

The next day we check out the To Sua Trench with Josh and Tanya (ST20pp) - it's a pretty cool lava hole pool that connects to the ocean through a couple of caves. We get there at low tide so Mike and Josh obviously attempt to dive through to the ocean, and make it there and back - phew!

Mike, Nadine & Tanya at To Sua Trench

Josh & Tanya at To Sua Trench

View of the ocean on the other side of the trench

Back at Tafua, we see Harleigh ad Abigail, who are staying next door, and find out that they've just tied the knot on the beach :) We share a couple of bottles of champagne and chat late in the night.

Harleigh & Abigail - wedding bliss!

Beautiful evening at Lalomanu Beach

And now for some champagne to celebrate with the newlyweds!

Josh & Tanya

Samoa - Upolu: Southern Coast

The next day Josh and Tanya offer us a ride to the east side of the island where we've heard of some wonderful fales on the beach. We take in the sights along the way - our first stop is the beautiful Aganoa black sand beach where we see lots of local canoes.

Aganoa Black Sand Beach

Aganoa Black Sand Beach canoes

We then go on a coastal walk to a lava field along the ocean cliffs in the Ole Pupu Pu'e National Park (ST$10pp).

Coastal Walk

Salani Surf Resort is our next stop, where we meet Chris and Shannon, the owners. We find out that the resort has just been entirely rebuilt following the 2009 tsunami, which explains why it is pricier than expected (us$295 per night)! No surf today, but We have a great lunch and let them know we will be back! Chris gives us his phone number to keep in touch as to the upcoming swell.

Shannon & Chris at Salani's

The new Salani accomodation

Next stop, Sopoaga Waterfall (ST15pp). The area is amazingly green and lush. We meet the landowner and caretaker who shares a huge soursop fruit with us - it tastes like tangy custard apple and soon enough we have it all over our faces!

Entrance to Sapoaga Waterfall

Sapoaga Waterfall

We clean up and head to Lalomanu on the eastern tip of the island. Taufua Beach Fales (ST70-90pp incl. all meals) is a great resort owned and run by Steve and his wonderful family. Unfortunately the coral reef was badly damaged during the tsunami, which Steve tells us about. The wave, which was nearly 8 metres high, happened only a few minutes after the earthquake, so with very little warning. They have now built an escape route into the cliffs behind the resort which was also rebuilt.

Taufua Beach Fales

That evening we go for a quick dip before dinner and see a ray leap into the air! Not sure what was chasing it... We meet all our fellow guests at the communal dining table - the food is yummy and the company incredibly diverse and interesting!

Samoa - Upolu

Samoa changed time zone on December 29th, so it is no longer one day behind New Zealand. For some reason this proves to be confusing and we spend some time figuring what day it is... Turns we arrive the same day we left, on December 6th, and not one day before as it would you have been before the time zone change... Once we're through the airport in Apia, we head for the bus - although the schedules here are unpredictable as they appear to be set by the bus driver... In the end we get a ride with the lady from the Information desk to the Outrigger Hotel in town. The hotel is very cute and we experience our first "fale" or wooden hut, which is actually very lovely. It is the rainy season, and that night it pours with rain but the fale holds up very well - not one leak!

Fales at Samoan Outrigger Hotel

This is for you Glyn: Mike spots a Ricoh dealership on our way back from dinner in Apia, Samoa :)

The next morning we're up early to catch the bus toward Maninoa Surf Camp on the South of the main island of Upolu (there are 2 islands in Samoa, Upolu and Savaii). We find out that the bus should pass by right outside the Outrigger so we cross the road and wait...and wait...an wait... We chat to some interesting people whilst waiting though so it isn't too bad. Someone suggests we go around the corner to the petrol station to make sure we don't miss it - and about 4hrs later, the elusive bus finally turns up, jam packed full of bodies. A Samoan lady we chat to manages to order us a cab at about half the usual tourist price, so we finally have a lovely ride down towards the south of the island. The Maninoa Beach Fales are beautifully located opposite the Coconuts break and near Boulders - another good surf break. The Fales themselves are not quite as lovely as expected but are sandwiched between two beautiful hotels, the Sinalei Reef Resort and the Coconuts Beach Club.

Coconuts Beach Club

Sinalei Reef Resort

Maninoa Surf Fales

Our fale at Maninoa

Having checked out the two neighboring hotels, we go for a swim and meet Josh & Tanya, an Aussie couple who've also just arrived. After dinner, we follow the sound the drums over to Coconuts for a fire show. The young girl you'll see in the video is only 12 years old, and performed at the opening ceremony of the Pacific Games.

 

 

The next morning we meet Harleigh and Abigail from New Zealand who arrived late last night. Since there is no surf, we all rent kayaks and paddle out to the break for some snorkeling, and spot two turtles amongst a multitude of colorful fish.